Rust showing up on your mace handle can feel frustrating — especially when you take pride in your gear.
The good news?
It’s fixable. Easily. And it doesn’t mean your mace is compromised or trash.
In this post, we’ll walk through:
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Why rust can show up in the first place
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What tools actually work to remove it
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How to restore the finish properly
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What not to use if you care about your knurling
This is the exact process we use in the shop and recommend to customers.
Why Rust Happens (And Why It’s Not Your Fault)
Steel reacts to moisture. Period.
Humidity, temperature swings, coastal air, garages, basements — all of it plays a role. Some customers go years without ever re-clear-coating a handle. Others live in environments where rust can start forming much faster, even under a clear coat.
Sometimes rust develops beneath the clear coat. That’s not ideal, but it’s also not catastrophic.
Important point:
A rusty mace still functions.
This is a cosmetic and maintenance issue, not a structural one.
What You’ll Need (Simple + Affordable)
You don’t need specialty tools or expensive products. Everything below is easy to find.
1. Wire Wheel for a Drill
This is your primary tool.
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Attaches to a standard power drill
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Costs around $5-10
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Removes rust quickly without being overly aggressive
This is what we use most often.
2. Hand Wire Brush (Optional)
Slower, but effective.
Good if you don’t have a drill or want more control in tight spots.
3. Scotch-Brite Pad
Use this after rust removal.
It helps clean up the surface and bring some shine back before recoating.
4. Safety Glasses
Non-negotiable.
Wire wheels throw debris.
How to Remove the Rust
Start by securing the mace if possible. A clamp or vice makes this much easier than trying to hold it while working.
Step 1: Wire Wheel the Rust
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Focus on rusty areas only
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Let the tool do the work — no need to press hard
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A few passes usually makes a huge difference
Knurling, tube, nut — all can be cleaned this way.
You’ll often see results in under a minute.
Step 2: Detail Work (Optional)
Use the hand wire brush if needed for small spots or edges.
Then finish with a Scotch Brite pad or something similar to smooth things out and prep for clear coat.
What NOT to Use (This Matters)
Avoid anything that removes material too aggressively — especially on the knurling.
Do NOT use:
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Sandpaper
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Emery cloth
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Sanding discs
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Grinder attachments
These will wear down the knurling, and once it’s gone, it’s gone.
The wire wheel is about as aggressive as you want to get.
Re-Clear Coating the Handle
Once you’re happy with how clean the steel looks, it’s time to protect it.
What We Use
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RustOleum semi-gloss or gloss clear coat (or something similar)
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Affordable, easy to apply, consistent feel
This is the same type of clear coat we use during manufacturing.
How to Apply
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Light, even coats
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3-4 total coats
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Allow proper drying time between coats
The result is a finish that feels good in the hands and works well with chalk.
How Often Should You Do This?
That depends entirely on where you live.
Some environments may require re-clear coating once every couple of years. Others may need touch ups more frequently.
There’s no universal schedule — just pay attention to your gear.
Rust isn’t a failure. It’s just a little feedback from the environment.
Final Thoughts
Your mace is a training tool. It’s built to be used, not babied.
If rust shows up:
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You didn’t do anything wrong
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The mace isn’t compromised
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You can fix it yourself with minimal effort
A little maintenance goes a long way, and your Cadi can look and feel just like new again.